DETAILED NOTES ON RESTAURANT AWARDS

Wherever else can you get roasted wild walleye, served in its personal smoke-scented broth with pickled fennel salsa verde, or Remarkable housemade pastas enlivened by quality Wisconsin substances, from feta to corn to shishito peppers? This can be worldly Midwestern cuisine free of clichés. Brett AndersonThe fusion of aesthetics and practicality

What if the pasta savant Mike Easton up and moved his acclaimed lunch-only place, Il Corvo, 275 miles east, from the grittier edge of downtown Seattle to Principal Street in small Waitsburg, Wash.? Very well, at this picture-perfect storefront House that seats only twelve at a time and provides just some antipasti and three pastas a night — an at